The following information is condensed from my various trips to Sipadan and Malaysia. It should give you the extra knowledge to make your trip a special treat.
When flying to Malaysia, be sure that all your luggage is properly ticketed every step of the way. Hang on to all baggage claim stubs, ticket receipts and boarding passes until you are safely back home. If flying to L.A., check your luggage to LAX, pick it up and carry it to Malaysia Airlines yourself. At Malaysia Airlines, you may check your gear all the way to through to Tawau, whether you are connecting straight through via Kota Kinabalu, or overnighting in Kuala Lumpur. Just pack your carry-on with toiletries and change of clothes, and save the hassle of humping all your luggage and dive gear around. When you continue on to Kota Kinabalu (KK), a representative of Borneo Divers will meet your flight. However, all that is needed is to change planes for the continuing flight to Tawau. In Tawau, you'll be met by cars and drivers for the two hour drive to Semporna. Ask them to stop so you can buy cokes or beers for the ride. It's a nice trip through some very interesting country. Watch for cacao, palm oil trees, rambutan fruit, and the Braminy Kite, a beautiful eagle-like hawk with a white head. In Semporna they'll check you into the Dragon Inn. Their restaurant is an excellent place for a seafood dinner. If you like, in the morning they'll set up a breakfast buffet for you. Cost is $3-$4 per person and well worth it. Ask the Dragon Inn manager upon check-in, as it must be arranged the night before. In the morning, get up early and stroll into town to the floating market. Quite interesting and a good photo op. Buy a Sarong to wear at Sipadan (guys too!). But don't miss the boat. Borneo Divers will want to depart for Sipadan by 8:30 or 9:00 a.m.
The people at Sipadan are super and will do anything they can to make your stay enjoyable. If you need something, or want something done differently - just ASK! As for the rodents, a publicity coup has transformed them into the "Sipadan Squirrels." Don't keep food in your room and you won't have a problem. (Note: cabins 1-4 are closest to the dive shop, but they are also the ones that may be closest the problem, so avoid them.) It's really nice to take a walk around the island in the morning or evening to bird watch and get away for a bit. The resort will offer conducted turtle walks at night to see the nesting/egg laying activity. It's a wonderful thing to experience first hand. In the water, I ask people not to frighten or aggravate the turtles, and at night, be careful not to shine lights in their eyes or disturb their slumber. We don't want them to get tired and grumpy, or send them off looking for quieter digs... The beach dive in front of the lodge has been justly named the best in the world by numerous dive magazines, but on the introductory dive the guides often swim too deep. In front of the resort, the best diving is in 5-25 feet of water, right on the top edge of the wall. Just enter in front of the dive shop, turn right and swim 45 seconds along the top of the wall. You'll soon see what I mean. Also, especially at night, there's a bunch of unusual life in the sand right in front of the dive shop, in four feet of water, including a very smart lion fish that has learned to hunt by the night divers' lights. As you stand there in the water putting on your fins, it will swim over to your ankles and politely wait until you're ready. Once underwater, shine your light on a bait fish, he'll snatch it, then as a quid quo pro, pose perfectly for a picture. This is diver/fish symbiosis at its best, but this fish eats so much, it soon looks like a "cow" fish. Hopefully it'll be there for you and not dearly departed due to over consumption. As for boat dives, my favorite sites are South Point (brisk current and pelagics) and Hanging Gardens (for nice macro or wide-angle/close focus), but all the sites have their merits. Again, the most life and light will be near the top of the reef. There are at least three leaf fish (quite rare) around that the guides can find for you. I've also found and photographed some very fine crocodile fish. If you want to see something in particular, just tell the guides, they are very knowledgeable.
If your itinerary includes Sandakan, the S.I. tours folks will meet you at the airport. Roland Ng is the boss, Dennis is the top guide, and you're in very good hands. Next morning, get an early start so you have time to see and shop the market and still get to the Sepilok Orang-Utan refuge by feeding time. Do have insect repellent and long pants for the jungle, and fast film (400 ISO) to photograph the Orang-Utans. After Sepilok, if you are adventurous diners, rather than lunching at your fancy hotel, ask to stop at a local restaurant. It will be cheaper and much more fun.
If your trip includes a stop-over in Kota Kinabalu, Borneo Divers will meet your flight and get you checked-in to the Tanjung Aru Beach Hotel, a very fine property. If anyone wants some additional touring or adventure here, just ask Borneo Divers to help, or work with the tour desk in the hotel. You might want to enjoy a final dinner at the big outdoor seafood restaurant just off the hotel's grounds. Borneo Divers will also handle the transfers back to the airport. Be sure they also reconfirm your flights throughout the itinerary. You'll find them most helpful and accommodating.
If your trip includes a stop in Kuala Lumpur, you'll be met at the airport by Tina Tours. (After immigration and customs, remember to exit through the "Green Door" marked "Nothing to Declare.") Tina Tours will transfer you to your lodging and handle your check-in. They will also handle your return to the airport for your continuing flight. There is a great deal to do in K.L., but if time is short, at least try to take a taxi for the short ride to Central Market and Chinatown. The shopping and dining opportunities there are legendary. So...have a wonderful trip, give my regards to the friends along the way, and make the most of world's greatest diving!
Best regards, Ken Knezick, President, Island Dreams Travel
P.S. For a special Sipadan treat, during a night dive hold on to a rock at about 30 feet, turn off your lights, and allow your eyes to adjust to the dark. Then start watching for the flashlight fish flitting about the mouths of crevices in the reef. On a dark night there will be hundreds of them, in a non-stop ballet of frenetic motion. The effect is other wordly...and fantastic! Give it a try and see for yourself.
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